Missing links within the apparel supply chain

This dissertation develops a research agenda on import intermediaries in global apparel supply chains, a largely overlooked link in existing Global Value Chain (GVC) and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) literature. While many scholars predicted that intermediaries would disappear due to digitalisation and direct sourcing, this study shows that they continue to play a crucial, though often invisible, role in the organisation of apparel production.
Import intermediaries connect retailers (lead firms) and manufacturers, facilitating trade and assuming key responsibilities. They help retailers manage risks, achieve economies of scale, and access specialised market and product knowledge. The research identifies four main reasons why retailers continue to source indirectly: (1) economies of scale, (2) risk shifting (financial, quality, delivery, social compliance), (3) market knowledge, and (4) product specialisation.
Although their role is significant, intermediaries operate largely outside the scope of public data and CSR monitoring systems, leading to an underestimation of their influence. Their position between retailers and suppliers makes them central to how CSR requirements and production pressures are negotiated. Ultimately, the dissertation shows that both lead firms and manufacturers strategically balance direct and indirect sourcing. Import intermediaries remain vital to keeping production flows steady, managing risks, and linking global buyers with manufacturers in an increasingly complex apparel industry.